Going Under

We arrived in Venice at around 12: 30 on Thursday. Our hotel was in Murano a 20 minute water shuttle away. Instead of lugging our collective 27kgs of bags around town, Nic and I went to the baggage check at the train station and tucked them away for the night. (2 bags cost 48 euro). Before we did that, we grabbed the baby backpack and loaded it with bare necessities, fresh ginch, pj's toiletries etc. Traveling light meant we could wander around Venice. We also grabbed our 24hr passes for the vaperetto system(water transit system). Planning ahead to our return journey the next day, we decided not to validate them until around 3pm so we could get back without needing new tickets.  The other purchase of course was a map. Rick Steves says buy one, but it was completely useless. Even the guy at the transportation center (in the train station) almost said so.The streets and alleys here are a mystical labyrinth. Beginners in Venice need to use the major landmarks (St Marks, Rialto Bridge, Accademia) as anchors and if you get into trouble find your way to the canal where you can get a vaperetto to rescue you.  Also there is frequent signage pointing you in the general direction of these landmarks which ended up being much more useful.

 So we started our wander.

Streets like this are common here. Sometimes wide enough for foot traffic in both directions but often not.

 

 The neighborhoods are well dotted, mostly,  with foot bridges to get you to the other side

 Usually as you near a touristy landmark, the shops start to increase in density. Lots of places to buy food, sweets or other indulgent souvenirs. 

 A couple of images from the Rialto Bridge which is a little shopping mall of it's own.

 We ran into this statue a number of times.

 We arrived at St. Marks and wandered around. The Basilica there in the distance had a line up to get in. After seeing St. Peters I didn't feel the need to go in. St. Marks Basilica and the St Marks Square is the major landmark in Venice. All around are the really expensive shops and restaurants. Near by it opens up onto the open water(they call it the pond). There we caught a vaperetto back to the train station. I returned to the baggage check to grab a warmer shirt. Back on the 4.2 vaperetto line, we were on our way to Murano to check into our hotel and have a rest.

Laconda Conterie cost only about 65 Euro for the night. Sometimes however you pay the price for being a cheap bastard. The location didn't bother me. The boat rides were nice.  The room was small with a slanted ceiling which is also fine. Thin walls which no Italian hotel should ever have, as you rest assured if there are Italians in the room next to you, you will hear them. The bathroom pissed me off. Tiny with the need to literally squeeze past the shower to reach the toilet.

While in Rome I never really managed to get acclimatized to the time difference. I slept on the train to Venice and finally at the hotel we took a light nap. Waking again around 6 we decided to head back to Venice proper. (We didn't explore Murano at all, but as best I could tell there isn't much there. Not a negative thing though.)

Getting back to Venice at twilight, Nic and I wandered around again looking for a place to eat. We had been doing the Pizza Pasta thing and will continue to do so. But thursday night had us looking for a Sandwich shop.

Careful as you wander at night in Venice. Look before you choose a street or alley.

 Go to the popular areas however and Venice gets new life. Back at St Marks.

 And along the canal.

We got back late to hotel in Murano. Just in time though, it started to pour as we went to sleep. Thankfully the room next to us had already done the same. I finally slept as well. It took 6 full days in Italy to do that properly. We woke a few times during the night but didn't finally wake up until only 45 minutes before check out time at 10. We showered and packed up. I was looking forward to exploring more of Venice and leaving the hotel behind.

Best yet, the weather had cleared. Friday April 13th was a beautiful day in Venice. 

 In Murano, walking to the Vaperetto.

 A few of the views on way back.

 Instead of heading back to the train station to start our day, we went one stop further to Piazza del Roma where the bus station is as it positioned us better for a walk to the Academia Bridge and Gallery . When we got off the boat right there was a Coop grocery store. I couldn't happier by finding this. We went inside and bought some plastic forks to take with us, as well as a couple of fruit salads, yogurts and drinks costing all together 11 euro. Back at the shops in town this all would have cost 25 easily. Venice is very pricey I don't think you'll be surprised.

  Finding Coop really help take the edge off that. It made sense when I thought about it. The trains are where the tourists will arrive. The buses that head into other parts near Venice would be for locals and a good place to hide a Coop. And I do mean hide. The Coop shops signs are a dull grey that blend into the store front. You wouldn't know what it was unless you walked right up to it.

I can't understand why Rick Steves doesn't mention anything about important locations like these. 
 Edit: Just ate my words. The Coops stores are in the book.

 A speed trap for lead footed boaters.

 More images from walking around town.

 The sun had come out in Venice, and with my first good night sleep I was just in a good mood all day.

 Venice is a difficult city to supply. These mini freighters make deliveries all over Venice. The driver of this one looks well past retirement age yet he's managing to roll those massive hand trucks or bottled water. Wow good for him I thought.

 Back at St Marks for a 3rd and final time. 

 

 I kept thinking I'd found the library from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. But now I don't think I did.

After 4 days in Rome I was happy to leave. I was happy to have gone to see the Iconic places, happy to have done it all once, and be done with the crowded tourist areas.I would go back, but am really happy that I don't have to. 

I could have easily spend another night here in Venice. While walking around I started talking about with Eurotrip 2.0 would look like and how we could add Venice to the agenda. I guess that's the best thing you can say about a place is that you leave it wanting more.

Nic and I were sure to have a drink on the Canal before we headed to Genoa.